Which cuts best enhance a colored gemstone's color?

The choice of cut for a colored gemstone is crucial, as it is expertly selected to preserve the stone's carat weight and maximize its unique color saturation, rather than to prioritize sparkle alone. While the round brilliant cut is the standard for diamonds, colored gemstones are often cut into other shapes to highlight their distinct hue. The following cuts are particularly well-suited: Cushion Cut: With its rounded corners and larger facets, the cushion cut beautifully displays deep color saturation and creates a soft, romantic sparkle. Oval Cut: This elegant, elongated shape creates the illusion of a larger stone while retaining excellent color and a lively brilliance. Emerald Cut: The long, step-like facets of an emerald cut create a "hall of mirrors" effect, drawing the eye deep into the gemstone and showcasing its pure, uninterrupted color and transparency.

Gemstone Cuts Glossary

Learn about popular gemstone cuts in fine jewelry — including round, emerald, cushion, oval, pear, radiant, and more. Discover how cuts affect brilliance and style.

Gemstone Cuts Glossary | Shapes & Styles Explained for Fine Jewelry

Q: What is a step cut vs. a brilliant cut?

A brilliant cut and a step cut are two distinct styles of faceting a gemstone. The primary difference is how their facets are arranged to interact with light. Brilliant Cut Brilliant cuts are designed to maximize sparkle, fire, and brilliance. They are characterized by numerous triangular and kite-shaped facets that create a dazzling display of light. Popular shapes include the round brilliant, cushion, and princess cuts. Step Cut Step cuts are designed to emphasize a gemstone's clarity and natural color. They feature long, parallel, rectangular facets that create a "hall of mirrors" effect, producing broad, elegant flashes of light. Popular shapes include the emerald and Asscher cuts.

The cut of a gemstone refers to how it is shaped and faceted to enhance its brilliance, color, and overall appearance. Whether you're choosing a diamond, sapphire, or other precious stone, the cut plays a significant role in its beauty and personality. This glossary breaks down the most popular gemstone cuts in fine jewelry — from classic round to trendy pear — so you can find the perfect style for any occasion.

What Is a Gemstone Cut?

A gemstone cut is the way a stone is shaped and faceted by a lapidary (stone cutter). It affects how light enters and exits the stone, directly influencing:

Brilliance (overall sparkle)
Fire (rainbow flashes)
Scintillation (light movement as the gem is viewed from different angles)
Symmetry and proportions
Shape and visual impact. The cut is not the same as the shape of a gemstone, although the two terms are often used interchangeably.

Round Brilliant Cut

The most popular and classic gemstone cut
Features 57–58 precisely angled facets
Designed for maximum brilliance and sparkle
Commonly used in diamonds and moissanite
Ideal for solitaires and timeless designs

Emerald Cut

Rectangular shape with step-cut facets (long, straight lines)
Clean, mirror-like sparkle with minimal fire
Highlights clarity and color over brilliance
Elegant and vintage-inspired
Often seen in diamonds, emeralds, and aquamarine

Cushion Cut

Square or rectangular with soft, rounded corners
Combines brilliance with a vintage feel
Features 58 or more facets
Offers a “pillowy” shape and romantic aesthetic
Suitable for both modern and antique-style settings

Oval Cut

Elongated version of the round cut
Excellent brilliance and fire
Flatters the hand by creating a lengthening effect
Versatile and modern, yet classic
Popular in engagement rings and colored stones

Pear Cut (Teardrop Cut)

Combination of round and marquise shapes
One rounded end, one pointed tip
Creates a slimming effect on the finger
Can be worn pointing up or down
Adds a unique, elegant flair to any design

Radiant Cut

Square or rectangular shape with brilliant-cut facets
Blends the fire of a round with the shape of an emerald or princess cut
Highly sparkly and modern
Often used in diamonds and brightly colored gemstones

Princess Cut

Square or slightly rectangular shape
Features sharp corners and a brilliant faceting pattern
High sparkle and contemporary appeal
Popular for engagement rings and fashion-forward styles

Marquise Cut

Long, narrow shape with pointed ends
Maximizes carat weight visually
Creates an elongating effect on the finger
Associated with vintage and bold looks

Asscher Cut

Square shape with step-cut facets and clipped corners
Similar to an emerald cut but more symmetrical
Distinct “hall of mirrors” effect
Bold, Art Deco style with strong personality

Heart Cut

Romantic, symbolic shape
Technically challenging to cut well
Best in larger stones where the heart shape is clearly visible
Unique and deeply personal

Trillion Cut (Trilliant Cut)

Triangular shape with curved or straight edges
Eye-catching and modern
Often used as side stones or accent gems
Brilliant faceting provides excellent sparkle

Baguette Cut

Long, rectangular step-cut with fewer facets
Minimalist sparkle with a clean, glassy look
Frequently used as side stones or in eternity bands
Known for precision and simplicity

FAQs

Oval, marquise, and pear cuts tend to appear larger than round stones of the same carat weight due to their elongated shapes.

Yes, the princess cut remains one of the most popular styles for engagement rings, especially for those seeking a square shape with lots of brilliance.

A brilliant cut and a step cut are two distinct styles of faceting a gemstone. The primary difference is how their facets are arranged to interact with light.

Brilliant Cut

Brilliant cuts are designed to maximize sparkle, fire, and brilliance. They are characterized by numerous triangular and kite-shaped facets that create a dazzling display of light. Popular shapes include the round brilliant, cushion, and princess cuts.

Step Cut

Step cuts are designed to emphasize a gemstone's clarity and natural color. They feature long, parallel, rectangular facets that create a "hall of mirrors" effect, producing broad, elegant flashes of light. Popular shapes include the emerald and Asscher cuts.

“Shape” refers to the outline (e.g., round, oval), while “cut” includes both shape and the arrangement of facets that affect brilliance.

Shape refers to the external, two-dimensional outline of the stone when viewed from above. It is the first thing you notice and is a matter of aesthetic preference. Popular shapes include round, oval, princess (square), emerald (rectangular), pear, and cushion.

Cut refers to the intricate craftsmanship of a gemstone's facets, angles, proportions, and symmetry. It is the most critical factor in determining how the stone interacts with light. A high-quality cut will maximize a stone's brilliance (white light reflection), fire (flashes of color), and scintillation (the sparkle as it moves). A poorly cut stone, regardless of its shape or clarity, will appear dull.

The shape is what the stone is, and the cut is how well it has been made. For example, a diamond can have a round shape but be given a poor, good, or excellent cut.

The choice of cut for a colored gemstone is crucial, as it is expertly selected to preserve the stone's carat weight and maximize its unique color saturation, rather than to prioritize sparkle alone.

While the round brilliant cut is the standard for diamonds, colored gemstones are often cut into other shapes to highlight their distinct hue. The following cuts are particularly well-suited:

Cushion Cut: With its rounded corners and larger facets, the cushion cut beautifully displays deep color saturation and creates a soft, romantic sparkle.
Oval Cut: This elegant, elongated shape creates the illusion of a larger stone while retaining excellent color and a lively brilliance.
Emerald Cut: The long, step-like facets of an emerald cut create a "hall of mirrors" effect, drawing the eye deep into the gemstone and showcasing its pure, uninterrupted color and transparency.