Phoenix represents freedom, spirituality and empowerment. It serves as an uplifting reminder to believe in yourself and persevere. — Mimi So
Each feather in the Phoenix collection is meticulously handmade by a team of skilled artisans. From the initial sketch to the final piece, each diamond, hinge and turn of the feather is carefully considered. The original design process is always the most intensive period for each collection and requires many hours of hard work to achieve the final result. The first consideration for the project was to create the look and feel of the feathers. Once the design details such as perfect height, articulation and turn of each feather was determined, approximately 100 hours were spent creating wax and metal models. It took various attempts to achieve the fluid look and feel of each feather design as the team had to experiment with the metal thickness and diamonds in a range of sizes. The Phoenix earrings, an elegant statement pair, features 206 diamonds ranging in size from 0.78 mm to 1.51 mm, all carefully gauged and hand selected.
The positioning of the diamonds contributes to the overall fluidity of the design, resulting in a balance of delicate and brilliant light. The Phoenix cuff is another signature piece of the collection. It took two years to complete due to the complexity of its shape which features an open section in the front. The team also developed a unique hinge that blends seamlessly into the design. “The Phoenix cuff is the most challenging bracelet I have ever created,” says Mimi. “I personally wear three cuffs everyday stacked against each other.” One notable challenge for the team was Mimi’s graduated design which includes feathers flowing gradually from big to small. Initially, the bend and articulation of each feather was hand drawn. After over 100 sketches and CAD drawings in total, the design was complete.
Each Phoenix Cuff design requires a different mold whether it features colored stones, all pave diamonds or plain gold. The ombre colored sapphire cuff in particular requires it’s own model because the density and thickness of the sapphires are different from diamonds. Therefore, the jeweler has to create a different metal thickness to accommodate all the colored stones. This requires 180 sapphires with a total weight of 2.25cts. The Phoenix ring is one of the most popular pieces in the collection as it’s easy and comfortable to wear everyday. Mimi sought to create an elaborate band design that would allow for easy everyday movement and comfort for the wearer. From the height to the shape of each feather, much thought went into the overall design of the piece. The Phoenix ring consists of 76 hand gauged diamonds selected by a skilled setter. Each diamond is neatly and tightly arranged from 0.78mm to 1.6mm to give light and brilliance to the feather design.